23 hours to Scilly (and back)

Like many, I spent a lot of time in lockdown planning things that I could do once we are allowed to. This blog is about one of my ideas that I have since managed to do - a day trip by public transport to Scilly.

I managed to get a couple of hours sleep before my alarm went off at 02:10. I was out of the house 15 minutes later for my walk to the bus stop. The bus turned up just after 03:00.

The idea of avoiding my car, to help the planet etc, seemed irrelevant as I was the only passenger on board all the way to Plymouth. We arrived into the new coach station (behind what used to be Fiestas a long time ago) a few minutes late, but I had plenty of time to wander around what is now a very large university site. I was hoping to find somewhere to refill my water bottle, without success, so it was on to the train station. Unfortunately, the ticket machines weren't working and it was too early for the ticket office, so I'd need to buy a ticket on the train.

There were a few trains already in the station including mine. It was the first train of the day to Cornwall departing at 05:40.

We were soon crossing the Tamar. There were only a couple of people per carriage onboard at this stage. I bought a ticket from the guard as we wound our way westwards. The train did fill up with commuters a bit more as went through most of Cornwall's larger towns before arriving punctually into Penzance. I did try to find a water refill again as I strolled towards the harbour, but failed again. I arrived a little early and promenaded along the sea front to kill some time. An hour before sailing, I joined a small queue on the quayside before boarding. The crew were already busy loading the cargo.

It didn't seem too busy when I boarded and wandered around the three decks inside, but it soon filled up. Outside space was at a premium as we let go. We went astern out of the harbour at quite a speed.

Then a quick change to forward and with a boost from the bow thruster, we turned on a sixpence. It was like magic compared to vessels I went to sea in many years ago.

Then we headed south along the Cornish coast. First it was Mousehole

then it became a little bumpier as we aimed west past Tater Du

then Porthcurno

and Land's End.

I felt quite nostalgic as land disappeared from view. It's been a long time since I've experienced a 360° sea horizon. I went downstairs for a water refill, the website said it was possible. I was told they don't normally do it, but if I went in the disabled loo, I could use the tap. So I did. The cafe just served sandwiches, cakes, coffee, tea etc and not alcohol. The crossing is about two hours 45 minutes. The Isles of Scilly are not tallest of islands, but on cue they appeared. We came around the southern end of St Mary's and into the harbour at Hugh Town. Before we finished mooring, there were boats alongside to take luggage straight from the ship to the other islands.

It was quite a busy scene.

It soon quietened down on leaving the quay and walking the streets of Hugh Town. I didn't have much of a plan about what to do. I thought about walking the whole coastline, but having less than four hours ashore that would have been pushing it and my two hours sleep from the night before would have caught up with me. So I wandered over to Porthcressa beach.

It was quiet. It felt like the siesta in a Mediterranean village. There were a couple of shops and restaurants selling their wares, but I decided to head to Peninnis Head. It remained quiet and was warming up. From their, I kept going to Old Town.

I did meet some other walkers here and after passing the old church, came across another 'busy' beach.

There was a restaurant here, but I decided to carry on along the coast path. As it started to climb a little, I came across an unusual footpath sign.

I had heard a buzzer a couple of times on my walk. As I descended the path on the other side of the airport, I thought it time to head inland before I wandered too far so as not to be able to guess my way back. I walked along a farm track and eventually came across a road. So I followed that back towards Hugh Town. At a fork in the road, there was a sign pointing to Old Town, so I went that way. Once there, I saw the Old Town Inn and it was open. Just one other customer was inside and I had a pleasant pint of Cornish ale. Then it was back on the road to Hugh Town. After passing the school and starting the descent into town, I noticed something that hadn't been there when I left earlier.

A cruise ship had anchored between St Mary's and one of the other islands (Sansom?). I thought that could mean the town was going to be very busy. It wasn't.

I had a nice pasty from the local bakery and sat on a rock near the water. I still had quite a bit of time before embarkation started, so I called in the Mermaid Inn. This was a bit busier and felt like a place that had been enjoyed by many over the years. I had a pint of ale they had named after themselves and drank at leisurely pace as people came and went, even some youngsters. Then it was time to board.

I stood and watched them loading the cargo for a while. We sailed out around the north of the island and the sea was a little calmer. I filled my water bottle again. There was a slight tail wind and that meant we arrived back into Penzance ten minutes early. This in turn meant I could make an earlier train back to Plymouth.

 

On the journey back, it seemed that nearly the whole railway line through Cornwall was infested with rhododendrons. What I didn't know at this stage was whether my early arrival in Plymouth would mean an earlier coach back to Somerset. So when I arrived, I rushed to the coach station to check. No was the answer and I had an extra hour to kill. I like Plymouth and normally could happily wander the city for an hour, but I was tired now. The coach left fairly promptly at 23:00, but by the bombed-out church we had to return as one of the three other passengers had left their wallet behind. Luckily it was still there and shortly afterwards, the three passengers disembarked not far along the A38 and I had the coach to myself again all the way home. I tried to take a photo of the coach after I disembarked.

I can't sleep on transport and was tired. A 30 minute walk home meant it was a 23 hour day trip.